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Tie instant portraits to gear sets, ensure there aren't any portraits set as the default instant portrait.. and it will still often show the default.
I've also noted that you need to reconfirm your gear set to make sure there aren't any weird errors associated with it, even if the set is current, or it will fail to load.
Am I doing something wrong? Or is the system in need of a few bug patches?
They've confirmed there are some bugs in the system, as well as few things that aren't bugs but aren't ideal behaviors. How instant portraits work with gearsets falls into both categories.
They've noted they're going to change some stuff about how it works to make it more intuitive and also less janky than it presently is; this first cut was marked Beta for a reason. In the meantime, according to the commentary, they recommend having only one Instant Portrait.