posting from *phone (not home...) lol
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posting from *phone (not home...) lol
When I go to Newegg, I go to Cases > ATX Mid-Tower, and I think probably something like this? http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...82E16811133094
This is the first page of cases that hits when I go to that page: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...-_-ATXMidTower
Oh ~ btw, does mATX mean the same as micro-ATX or mini-ATX? I have seen all three of those terms used in the Case specs. So mine is mATX? I assume "ATX Mid-Tower" would be the range I should be in?
My problem is that I just don't know how to make sure that the case and the new cooler, along with everything I already have, will work perfectly together with fairly simple assembly (not overly complicated attachment of cooler, or unusual paste-application requirements).
The cooler department, I'm totally clueless of where to begin to shop. If you are recommending that Dark Knight (which I have thrown into my wishlist), then that's likely what I'll get if it will work with the case and my current equipment which will be moved in ^^;
Like, this one says m-ATX supported: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...82E16811129021
This one says micro-ATX: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...82E16811133094
This one says mini-ATX: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...82E16811133086
(all also list just plain "ATX" or "Full ATX" as well)...
This girl is overwhelmed and confused :confused:
lol i'll see if i can help clarify a few things, in regards to mATX, this usually refers to Micro-ATX. Mini ATX was originally designed for mobile/portable embedded computers for use in things such as ATMs and digital signs, as it runs cool and quietly.
Micro ATX is designed to have all the features of a full-sized ATX motherboard in a smaller form factor. Think of it like a PS3 original fat model and a PS3 slim, its the same thing but they made it more compact.
Other differences are things like PCI slots and size; ATX has 5 PCI slots and a standard size of 305 mm × 244 mm. Micro ATX has 4 PCI slots(can have less), a max size of 244 mm × 244 mm and as small as 171.45 mm × 171.45 mm. Finally Mini ATX has one PCI slot and a standard size of 15 x 15 cm.
Your board is close to a mATX(Micro-ATX), since we'll be going with a Mid-tower case, you don't have to worry about it supporting your motherboard; simply because of the way the mount holes are arranged, if it supports ATX, it will probably support Micro-ATX.
As for your cooler, i was thinking of going with the Xigmatek Dark Knight II Night Hawk, yes its a bit bigger but compared to other coolers with similar performance, its small. As Dhalmel mentioned, this one also uses Direct Touch heatpipes, which require you to install thermal compound a bit differently but its still pretty straight forward. I'll post some links that explain what to do, its pretty easy, main idea is instead of putting the paste on the cpu, you put it on the cooler.
Different Methods of applications with temp tests
If you choose to do the parallel line method, i linked a small video that shows you what to do, though the above test says a small dot on the center of the cooler gave the best results.
40sec Video on how to do the parallel line method
This is all assuming you still don't want to go with a closed liquid cooler. Here is a video that explains how a H60 is installed, its really simple, a lot simpler then most high end air coolers.
Ok Shura, I will be able to check out everything a bit later^^
My next question would be, since you do recommend a certain cooler, is there any particular case you prefer over others? Do you like any particular brand? And will *any* of the Mid-Tower options accommodate your recommended cooler as well? Again, many many thanks!
*certain case (not cooler! ) can't edit from phone!ack
I'm looking at some reviews now, there are a lot of new models on the market so gonna need some time. I have personally used the same case in my last 3 builds so been awhile since i looked at case reviews. Also i do recommend you look at the Liquid cpu cooler video, i know your a bit reluctant to go with liquid but its not the same thing as a water cooled PC. I know how you feel, even I'm reluctant to do water cooling but i tried a liquid cpu cooler 2 years ago and loved the performance you got for a small piece of tech. This is closed circuit, so unlike a full water cooled system, you don't really do anything, just install it like a air cooler and your done.
My son uses a big giant Thermaltake case, so that would be my first inclination (to get the mid-version).
So as to the liquid cooler, there is absolutely no maintenance to it other than what one would do with an air cooler (cleaning/reapply paste?) Is H60 the liquid cooler you refer to? Simpler install than others and better cooling? hmmm. is it this one? http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...82E16835181015 The first review mentions tough fitting next to RAM, and I think my RAM area is already tight?
Haha, after watching the H60 cooler install, I'm looking at this case.... http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...82E16811139008
PS~ If I decided to go with the H60, would I use their pre-paste, or wipe that off and use Pro-PK1 or something else?
I am thinking that corsair case and that corsair H60 are the way to go. Can't wait to hear your opinion :)
Another EDIT: Please forgive me, I'm starting to eek out about liquid/water again, so may just go with an air cooler after all. I assume the Dark Knight is your #1 recommendation on that? Do you have any others?
I have personally never owned a Thermaltake case so i can't personally comment on the quality, only base it on what the reviews say. The Corsair you linked to is a nice case, it was actually the one i was leaning towards; i personally feel the outside is a bit plain but the inside is absolutely beautiful(that's what really counts anyway lol).
As for the Corsair H60, the one you linked to is a old model, you want This one, its the new 2013 model. Also after you install it, that's it your done like a normal air cooler, when you clean the PC, you may want to remove the fan attached to the radiator and spray some air to remove any dust on it then reinstall the fan. Aso unlike Arctic Silver, most of the new thermal compounds do not require you to reapply every 2 years or so; they last for 4-5 years so by the time you need to change it, your probably upgrading anyway.
As for the stock per-applied paste, i don't know what paste they are using on the new model, my old model came with Shin-Etsu which is a really high quality paste so i just used that. I'm gonna try to see if i can find out what paste their using but just go with stock paste and If it turns out to be some cheap paste, you can always change it later, if you saw the video, you know how easy it is to remove.
Here are 2 video reviews for the Corsair Carbide 300R ($69) and 400R ($99), go ahead and watch them so if you decide to buy them, you know what your getting. The one thing i don't like about Corsair case is, while they have so many places to install fans, they usually don't come with them. Upside is you can buy high quality fans of your choice as opposed to paying $150 for a case with fans then changing them anyway since their cheap garbage fans.
Edit: just saw your edit lol, ya if you decide to go with Air i recommend the Dark Knight, while there are better ones, they cost twice as much and twice the size, for 2-3C difference. I understand your worries about using something labeled as "liquid" cooling because before i bought one, i was in the same shoes, even now I'm afraid to do a full water setup. Both are good coolers, i personally never liked the idea of having such a big heatsink taking up most of the space in my case so i tried the H60 and have not gone back since.
Yeah I agree with the cases, 300R and 400R are probably the best budget cases you can get that doesn't look cheap and full of annoying LEDs.
As for the H60, this is just my opinion but I dislike most of the pre sealed AIO water coolers. I don't trust the quality of the pump, because once it dies there's the chance you will kill your CPU and you won't know till it's too late. This happened to my old i7 950 build. Not to mention some of them are kind loud. I would rather stick to a air cooler with some quality (quiet) air pressure optimized fans.
and shura, how are you? it's kinda being in the same thread and not acknowledge each other lol
I rec'd the AXP-100 mostly because for the sound level it's performs greatly. I prefer my systems to be nearly dead silent at all cost, the DK probably has fans that moves more air, giving that 9'c difference and it has a bit more surface area to move away heat.
You probably posted amidst one of my numerous ninja edits ; ;
I am a little freaked out about liquid/water, I'm terrified to be that one person that it leaked or broke on which ruins everything else. So, I may just go with an air cooler after all. I assume the Dark Knight is your #1 recommendation on that? Do you have any others?
The 400R case says it has 3 fans (2 front, 1 rear) so I probably won't need more than that anyway. That's 2 more than my current case :p At least I seem to have a case narrowed down :) Probably the 300 is just fine actually, too
Yeah Dark Knight seems fine enough just be mindful of the TIM application and use a good one that spreads well, like Artic MX-4. At least with the DK if you don't like the fans you can swap them out easy for better ones.
Honestly i have 2 systems at home that use the H60(old model) and built a few for people and never had any problems; and if you monitor your temps, you'll know when something is up but have yet to experience any issues, the one in my system is few years old now and still cooling like a beast. I don't want to force you to do anything you don't want to do, this really comes down to what you want to do, The Dark Knight is a good cooler too. I personally like the H60 since it preforms at the same level as high end air coolers, for less cost and looks clean and simple in a case. Never liked the idea of having huge air cooler heatsinks in my case. Having something like this sitting on your CPU is just so ugly to me:
http://benchmarkreviews.com/images/r..._arrow_mb2.jpg
Hey Eagle, I'm doing good, my course load for university this year is just insane so other then PC/tech related threads on this forum, i have not really been keeping up with the game. Exams start in 2 weeks so hopefully by the time I'm free again, it'll be phase 3-4. I always quoted you knowing who you were and i assumed you were replying because you knew it was me lol, i just never made any off topic comments since i didn't want to think about the game till i was done with exams. Thinking about computers on the other hand just helps me relax, but anyway, how have you been, still running the 3930k? and make any new insane upgrades like the Titan lol?
Shura, You should look at Swiftech's new "prebuilt" WC product, the H220.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4gxbXZSUje8
It's from a well known WC OEM and it's probably the AIO closest to custom water cooling. I'm pretty excited for it as they're my favorite company to buy rads and pumps from.
I also dislike huge air coolers, but they do have their advantages, like being great passive coolers for a fanless system.
Shura, the "old" model (that I linked) says Liquid Cooler. The new one which you linked says "water". Since your post about the H60 said it's not water cooling, it's liquid cooling (and you are in fact using the older model), if I went this route, would I want to then go with the older one?
btw, LMAO at the pic!
Ok.... *giant exhale*... here is what I have decided to do for now~
I am going to order the Corsair 400R case. The little Rosewill pushpin cooler that I ordered the other day will be here Monday. It may not be the ideal cooler, but @ $15 it would cost as much to RMA, lol! So, when the case arrives, I will use this cooler (for now). The combination of this new cooler and the improved case are certain to improve my temps to an acceptable level ( ::knock knock knock:: ). Then, I will have a good case in which to upgrade piece by piece in the future, as I feel I need. The first will likely be a better cooler, but if I find the Rosewill to work just fine, I may have no upgrades for a while anyway, all I ever played is XI and XIV 1.0 and now ARR :)
And I want to thank you all for all of your advice and information. This community is the best! I am sure you haven't heard the last of me in these technical threads! :D
Its the same thing, the new one has a better fan, new pump design, new backplate for new socket motherboard and the radiator shape is a bit different. The new shape is supposed to be better at expelling the heat, based on the reviews i saw, it does do a few Cs better. Newegg just did a bad job with the naming, probably a different person listed it and typed in water instead of liquid; on the Corsair site its still listed as liquid.
lol was not trying to be funny with that pic, most of the air coolers that did better then the H60 or Dark Knight look like that. Here are a few more examples of coolers that did better then the Dark Knight by 1-2C from this test.
Phanteks PH-TC14CS
http://www.legitreviews.com/images/r...tc14cs_024.jpg
Noctua NH-L12
http://www.bjorn3d.com/wp-content/up...allation10.jpg
TPC 812 - Cooler Master
http://www.modders-inc.com/modules/N...12_lg_22-2.jpg
ENERMAX-ETD-T60-VD
http://www.businesscom.cn/wp-content...-T60-VD-17.jpg
I'm really big on simple aesthetics so i can't justify having these high on air coolers on my board when i can get the similar performance from the H Series coolers for half the cost and a better clean look. Its not that these coolers are bad, most will do better then the H60 or Dark Knight but the difference is too small and really just comes down to your personal aesthetic preference.
Wow, those coolers are HUGE. They look like they belong on cars.
Case fans like this one? http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...82E16835181028
Thanks a bunch! Will do ^^
The Corsair fans are good, some others that are a bit cheaper if your worried about price are listed below
Nzxt FZ-140 Don't let the newegg price fool you, these are amazing fans, i use them personally in my case.
Cougar CF-V14H Not much different in terms of price compared to the Corsair.
Nothing wrong with the Corsair ones though, might even look better in your 400R compared to the other 2.
I did search by highest reviews and there were several less expensive options. I ended up going with the Corsair because every review mentioned quiet, lol! I am used to ONE case fan and now the acceleration of my graphics card fan. So going from 1 case fan to 5, I figured quiet should count into the purchase so I don't feel like I'm launching the space shuttle ^^.
New case and fans are ordered. Should be able to get all these changes completed between beta phases, thanks to the help of all you guys, especially Shura, my forum tech advisors! :D
Strangely enough, I was having some issues with my PSU so I RMA'd it to Newegg but they no longer carry the model and are refunding me. So i'm in the market for a new PSU now.
Are the 80+ Platinum worth it? Or is there not much difference between those and Gold?
I have a Seasonic 1kw Platinum for my 2 main systems.
It's worth it if you have really power hungry computers like what I have but generally you're not going to see much power savings on a normal system unless you keep your computer on 24/7.
When I'm not using my systems I have them folding, so I have them on pretty much all day everyday.
It's best to stick to gold rated PSUs unless you see a platinum one at the same price.
This is what I have:
http://www.jonnyguru.com/modules.php...Story&reid=264
If you really want a Platinum rated one go for the 760/860w model from Seasonic.
TL;DR: If you're an active folder or into lolbitcoins they're worth it, if you're not stick to gold or silver.
I've seen a lot of Seasonics but never heard of them, I guess they are pretty good?
I do have one little probably dumb tiny question. The Rosewill pushpin cooler will fit into the mount on my CPU, so long as I take off the backplate from the back of the motherboard (which will be done since I'm moving into the 400R case)? So, the reason the pushpin cooler would not work without removing the backplate is because the backplate is coming through the holes in the mount, taking up too much room in the 4 holes? Am I understanding that correctly? Once the backplate is off, I will be able to install the pushpin cooler exactly as it was intended? Pushing and quarter-turn twist?
Again, thanks! :o
I am glad I found this thread, cause I am having heat issues from my CPU, granted I am using the stock HS/fan. I have a AMD FX 8120. I need a new case and PSU. Currently I am using an old case, all I know it is a small Antec Mid-tower. I'm almost set on getting the NTXZ Phantom case. I'm having a hard time finding after market Heat Sinks for my AM3+. My Current PSU is a Thermaltake TR2 600 W. My MB is an ASUS M5A99X-Evo. My CPU Socket temp is around 30 on idle and between 45-50 playing games. Core Temp is usually around 20 on idle and 40-44 playing games. Any suggestions?
The Phantom is too much plastic for my taste but does the job for most people.
HS soley depends on your budget and if you plan to use tall ram and your sound to performance preference.
There are a few options so lets try to narrow it down a bit more; for the case how big would you like to go? Mid-tower/full tower and how high in price? For the CPU cooler, would you like to do air or go with closed loop liquid coolers like the Corsair Hydro and the Nzxt kraken and again how high are you willing to go in price.
I'm not a big fan of the aesthetic look of the phantom, kind of looks like alianware. The phantom comes in many different models, size and price so which one were you considering?
Wow Kirei's temps don't sound high to me at all. They sound like my goal temps. Am I misunderstanding something or am I just plain wrong? What is the ideal temperature range I/we should be seeking?
And Kirei, you certainly came to the right place. The guys here are extremely helpful and knowledgeable. :)
Good question, I'll try my best to clarify; Kirei's CPU(FX-8120) is different compared to your i7 860 in a number of ways, one of which is max safe temps. For example your CPU uses the Lynnfield chip and has a max safe temp around low to mid 80C, most people try to keep it under 75C. Kirei's CPU uses the Bulldozer chip and has a max safe temp of 61C. In Your case those numbers would be ideal but for Kirei they are not, though they are within the safe temp range and seems to be the average for the chip.
I have not worked with the FX-8120 myself but from looking around the web, it seems those are well within the safe range, some people report lower temps but they usually have a higher quality thermal compound, big case and use a higher quality CPU cooler. Other users report having overclocked the 8120 to 4.0-4.5ghz and still manage to keep max load temps for the CPU core under 55C. Based on the information you provided, only thing i can conclude is that considering your using stock cooler and assuming your using stock thermal compound, these temps are the average for your CPU. Not sure what kind of case you have either but since you said you wanted a new one, I'm assuming it does not have good air flow. Going with some higher quality parts will decrease your temps but you won't see a big difference on idle unless you overclock your CPU a bit; should be a noticeable change under load.
Sorry it took so long to reply. I just got home from work. About my current case, imagine a Volkswagon Beetle, its almost like the case was molded around my components. All I have is an exhaust fan. I have both side panels off and a big fan blowing into the case. When I play games I have my AC on in my room. My room heats up real fast. As for which Phantom I would want. Either the Full ATX 630 or 820. I really like how much room is in it and how many fans it can use, it has filters everywhere to catch dust. Yes I am using the stock thermal past. I bought the parts (case I already had) in July. I should have bought some real paste and applied it originally.
I know water cooling is considered "safe" but water + Electronics doesnt seem like a good combination lol. As for how much money I am willing to put up to continue the build. Let's just say $400-$500. I might as well get another PSU. I know mine isnt the best. Even then I am not sure which is better, Modular or the regular. I think mine is Modular. It has about 14 cords that use Molex connections. I hope this helps a little. If you need anymore info just ask. :)
Shura I am only seeing one 3-pin "plug" on my mobo for a fan and none in the corsair case. Am I missing something? Corsair says you can add umpteen fans to the case but no place to plug any of them in? Is there some kind of an "extension cord/adapter" thing to plug in the 3 fans that come in the case pre-installed and the 2 additional ones I got? Something else I need to order or am I missing something here?
4pin PWM fan headers can go into 3pin fan boards, just position it where the bumps slide with the latch thing. The 4th pin hole with just be sticking out, if your motherboard doesn't have enough fan headers you can purchase a simple fan header split or a dedicated fan controller.
All 5 of the fans I have are 3-pin connectors. From what i see, I have one 3-pin spot on the mobo to plug it into. I can buy a splitter but they only seem to sell 2 way splitters. I'd have to buy several and stack them but idk if that one mobo "outlet" (lack of a better word, is what you call the fan header?) is intended to run 5 fans. Can you link me to what you think I need?
http://en.community.dell.com/cfs-fil...0-mobo-pic.PNG
Unfortunately the Dell board does not support more then 2 fans on the board, number 29 for a case fan and 03 for the cpu cooler. Now if i remember right the two front fans are connected using a 4 pin molex connection, just connect that to the molex connector coming from your power supply.
http://cdn.overclock.net/9/9e/400x40..._CIMG0910.jpeg
This should take care of your front 2 fans, for the two you bought, i recommend installing them on top as exhaust fans, now if the fans only have 3 pin connection then they should of come with a 3 pin to molex connector. It looks something like this:
http://www.moddiy.com/product_images...54795_zoom.jpg
If they did not then you'll need to buy something like this:
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...82E16812311003
They cost like $4 on newegg, might be able to find them at your local best buy or computer store for around the same price. Now if they did come with a 3pin to molex connection that should take care of your 2 front and 2 top fans, for the back fan, just connect that to the 2nd fan connector on your motherboard(#29)
EDIT: Ignore the first spliter i linked you too, get this one instead;
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...82E16812311001
for the first one, 2 fans run at reduced speeds, so you don't want that, also this supports up to 5 fans and can be connected to the motherboard to monitor speeds.
Sorry i took awhile to reply, was doing some research on your CPU and the Phantom. Lets start with the case, The Phantom 820 is really really big, even for a full tower its huge and i don't think its worth it honestly for the price it goes for. Also its important to note that the Phantom 820 and 630 are designed with watercooling in mind and come with options to install multiple radiators. If price is not an issue it comes down to personal aesthetic preference; a lot of high end cases are on par with each other so really depends on what design you like. If you like the Phantom design then i would recommend the 630 over the 820; Its a bit smaller in size but comes with the same options, same design and based on reviews it cools better then the 820.
Phantom 630 Test results
Here are some other High quality Cases that are a bit cheaper in price.
Rosewill Thor V2 some claim this is one of the coolest(temp) case on the market. It goes for about $129; $120 cheaper then the 820 and $50 cheaper then the 630
http://media.bestofmicro.com/4/6/315...2_finished.jpg
Another great case is the Antec 1100, this is a Mid-Tower but is large and supports up to XL-ATX boards. I personally love the simple design of the case and the cooling options it has but the downside is its a case designed for Air cooling. If you think you might go with liquid in the future, this is NOT the case for you, it has next to no native radiator mounting options. Sells for $99
http://store.antec.com/Libraries/MISC/1100.sflb.ashx
For CPU cooler; personally i would suggest a closed loop liquid cooler this is different from full water cooling, no maintenance at all, install and be done with it These liquid coolers preform better then most high end Air coolers and has a much much smaller psychical footprint.
Something like this:
http://tpucdn.com/reviews/Corsair/H9...led2_small.jpg
Produces the same temps as something like this:
http://www.arrowcomputers.com.au/wp-...UASSASSIN2.jpg
Now some people are just to afraid to go with anything with the word Liquid in it and that's understandable. If you really want to go with Air then you have a few options based on your price range and how big of a cooler your willing to accept, let me know and i'll link you to a few of them.
For your PSU, what model do you have? and also what kind of GPU do you have?
For JillyBean: Here is a video tutorial on cable management. Cable management will help with the airflow in a case in the long run and gives the machine a nice clean look. The case used in the Video is also a Corsair 400R so thought it might help.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5xKIiAu4rio
Shura, before I saw your reply, I did determine that the front 2 fans did have power assigned.
So now for the back fan and the top fan. What I ordered (before seeing your post) is this: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...82E16812119248 And since it uses the mobo fan header, I ordered this: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...82E16812200855 to further split one, for a total of 3 fan plugs. Hopefully this will also work.I totally wish I could have found the one you linked. Hopefully what I ordered will also work?
My biggest issue at this point is the FP connector which I cannot find a diagram for to save my life, so in the end it may be a matter of carefully tracing each wire. The Corsair case has (separated) connectors - here is a pic
http://i197.photobucket.com/albums/a...FP1corsair.jpg
This is a pic of the Dell FP1 in my computer, and the header itself has NO label other than "FP1" underneath it ...
http://i197.photobucket.com/albums/a...ph/FP1dell.jpg
http://i197.photobucket.com/albums/a.../FP1incase.jpg
Any hints as to which corsair case plugs will go into which FP1 header on the Dell mobo?