Chains of Promathia's mission storyline was nice in that it trickled out rewards and unlocks as you went along.
The zones that were released with that expansion pack are still some of the coolest in the game. There's a lot of rich content and many small stylistic goodies that the development team hasn't quite repeated with the areas that were released since. Riverne, Lufaise Meadows, and Al'taieu are all really, really cool, and the central structures in Sea (especially with the music) really do a good job of making the last few missions feel like a crawl through a traditional "final dungeon" crawl in an old Final Fantasy game.
That's assuming you don't just unlock Sea and quit.
I have to ask... If you're not interested in working your way through long, detailed storylines, what about Final Fantasy XI appealed to you? I don't suspect you're a fan of the franchise, given that many of the design choices you seem to dislike are hallmarks of the series as a whole. I don't suspect you're just an MMO hound, given that FFXI hasn't been the flavor of the month since WoW was released. There's plenty of other MMOs out there that are faster, cheaper, and have a more user base.
I'm not trying to shove out a new user, especially not these days. I'm genuinely curious as to why you started out with a game that puts such emphasis on exploration and lore when you don't seem to have the patience for how they were implemented.

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